Monday, 20 June 2022 08:43

The Rive Revolution: Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG

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This short article is a follow up to my webinar for WSG of 7th June, 2022. It is primarily a reference piece which aims to give more detailed information than the power point format allows. It includes full listings of the Rive sub-zones, terroir areas identified in studies of the Conegliano Valdobbiadene denomination and lists of producers currently bottling Rive wines.

What are the Rive? (And what they are not)

The Rive are wine growing areas within the Conegliano Valdobbiadene DOCG. They are defined by administrative boundaries, on a larger scale at the level of "comune" (generally translated as 'village') and within the comuni in smaller areas of "Frazione" (approximately translated as 'hamlet'). In the photo below, Farra di Soligo is the name of the comunal Rive and Col San Martino is a "frazione" of the comune. A producer may use one or the other on a label, depending on the location of the vineyards.

 

 

There are a total of 43 Rive. Appendix (1) gives the full list, divided by comune and frazione. Not all the comuni have frazioni within their administrative boundaries, so in these cases their wines are represented by a single Rive. There are 15 comuni in the Conegliano Valdobbiadene area and all are included in the Rive system, which theoretically makes for comprehensive coverage of the DOCG, as can be seen in the map below. Only frazioni located in areas unsuitable for viticulture are excluded.

 

Map courtesy of the Consorzio di Tutela del Prosecco Superiore DOCG

The Rive are sometimes referred to as "cru", but this is misleading. The French "cru" system is based on the classification of vineyard areas according to combination of topography, soils and climate which constitute the quality of a specific "terroir". The Rive are different in two important ways. The first is that they are toponyms, in the sense that they identify places of origin, but not necessarily areas with homogeneous soils and climate. Within the administrative boundaries of a Rive there may be areas with different growing conditions. The second difference is that the Rive occupy a horizontal slot in the Prosecco quality pyramid, without any internal classification.

Rive and Terroir

Studies of the soils and climate of the Conegliano Valdobbiadene area and their impact on the character of the wines conducted over a long period from 1997 to the present have identified 19 specific growing environments within the denomination which the researchers called "terroirs". (Tomasi & Gaiotti (2011 and 2020) and Scienza et al (2020)). The boundaries of the Rive, based as we have seen on administrative areas, rarely correspond directly with those of the terroir zones. In some cases the same terroir extends over a number of Rive, while in others a single Rive may have different terroirs, however on the basis of the studies it is possible to group together Rive in three macro areas, in the east, the centre and the west, with similar growing conditions and wine characters in common.

The East

The low rolling hills of the east and southeast of the DOCG are the most homogeneous in terms of soil and climate. The area is less intensely planted than other parts of the denomination but it produces signficant quantities.The wines have a distinctive character, particularly suited to brut and extra brut styles.

Eastern Sector

Rive: Ogliano (Comune: Conegliano) Collalto (Comune : Susegana)

Topography/Soils

70-170m; slight gradients; clay soils ; east - west aspect

Climate

high max temps; high temp excursions; low rainfall

Phenology

early budding and ripening; vigorous growth; high yields

Wine: Aroma

green apple; almonds; herbs; spice

Wine: Character

lower intensity aromas; round on the palate good structure and length

The Center

The spectacular landscapes of the central sector have the highest vineyards with the most dramatic gradients. Access is often difficult. Vines are planted on south-facing slopes, protected by dense woods on the northern faces. The wines are amongst the most refined.

Central Sector

Rive: Farra di Soligho; Col San Martino (Comune: Farra di Soligo); Colbertaldo (Comune: Vidor)

Topography/Soils

150-450m; steep gradients; very mixed, shallow conglomerate soils; south aspect

Climate

high max temps; high average temps; low excursions; rainy

Phenology

early budding; low vigour; average to late ripening

Wine: Aroma

complex, mid-intensity; floral, citrus, white and yellow fruit

Wine: Character

light and crisp, possibly a little delicate, great freshness and finesse

The West

The most intensively planted area, which extends without interruption eastwards from Valdobbiadene on mid-elevation slopes. Possibly the most classic Proseccos which combine aroma, fruit and freshness.

Western Sector

Rive: San Pietro di Barbozza; Santo Stefano; Guia (Comune: Valdobbiadene)

Topography/Soils

180-230m; moderate-steep gradients; deep fine marl;  southeast-soutwest aspect

Climate

warm temperate, moderate temp range; average-low rainfall

Phenology

late budding and ripening; (high percentage of old vines)

Wine: Aroma

complex, sweet floral; rich, ripe stone fruit; tropical fruit

Wine: Character

expressive, fragrant wines of elegance and complexity,

Production

The initial take up on Rive bottling was slow. In the first official tasting of the new sub denominations in 2010 there were 14 samples. Since then the Rive have gained momentum and in my recent tastings there have been over 70 wines. The Conegliano Valdobbiadene Consorzio reported a production of 2,396,939 bottles in 2020 and although quantities are limited in the context of a total production of 92 million bottles they are increasing steadily. Production is concentrated in less than half of the total number of 43 Rive. The table in appendix (2) shows the Rive present in official tastings in 2021 and 2022 (fewer in the latter because the tasting was earlier in the year, before many wines were bottled). Collalto and Ogliano from the east stand out for their presence, as do Santo Stefano, San Piertro di Barbozza and Guia from the west.

Who is making wine and where

In the tables in appendix (3) and appendix (4) I have indexed (3) producers by Rive and (4) Rive by producer. The listings are based on presence in official tastings and are certainly not exhaustive, but include all the major producers.

Appendix (1) : Rive listed by Comune

Comune

Rive

Cison di Valmarino

Cison di Valmarino

 

Rolle

Colle Umberto

Colle Umberto

Conegliano

Collabrigo-Costa

 

Ogliano

 

Scomigo

Farra di Soligo

Col San Martino

 

Farra di Soligo

 

Soligo

Follina

Farrò

 

Follina

Miane

Campea

 

Combai

 

Miane

 

Premaor

Pieve di Soligo

Pieve di Soligo

 

Solighetto

Refrontolo

Refrontolo

San Pietro di Feleto

Bagnolo

 

Rua di Feletto

 

Santa Maria di Feletto

 

San Michele di Feletto

 

San Pietro di Feleto

San Vendemiano

San Vendemiano

Susegana

Colfosco

 

Collalto

 

Susegana

Tarzo

Arfanta

 

Corbanese

 

Resera

 

Tarzo

Valdobbiadene

Bigolino

 

Guia

 

San Giovane

 

San Pietro di Barbozza

 

San Vito

 

Santo Stefano

Vidor

Colbertaldo

 

Vidor

Vittorio Veneto

Carpesica

 

Cozzuolo

 

Formeniga

 

Manzana

Appendix (2): Rive Samples Present in Tastings 2021-2022

 Rive

Samples 2021

Samples 2022

Collalto

9

8

San Pietro di Barbozza

7

7

Santo Stefano

7

6

Guia 

6

5

Colbertaldo

4

3

Col San Martino

5

4

Farra di Soligo

4

6

Ogliano 

5

2

Refrontolo

4

5

Soligo

4

1

Carpesica

2

2

Collabrigo-Costa

2

1

Combai

2

1

Rolle

2

2

Scomigo

1

2

Single Samples

Farrò; Campea;Colfosco;Formeniga;Santa Maria di Feletto; San Pietro di Feletto; San Michele di Feletto; Manzana; Rua; San Vendemiano; Solighetto; Vidor (12)

Absent from Tastings

Arfanta ; Bigolino; Bagnolo; Colle Umberto; Corbanese ;

Cozzuolo; Cison di Valmarino ; Follina ; Miane ; Pieve di Soligo; Premaor ; Resera ; San Giovanni ; SanVito ; Susegana ; Tarzo (16)

Appendix (3) : Producers by Rive

Producer

Rive

1.     Adami

Farra di Soligo

2.     Andreolo

Soligo; Refrontolo; Col San Martino

3.     Bellenda

Carpesica

4.     Biancavigna

Collalto; Farra di Soligo

5.     Bisol

Guia; Campea

6.     Bortolomiol

Santo Stefano; San Pietro di Barbozza

7.     Cà Saline

Santo Stefano

8.     Drusian

Santo Stefano

9.     Duca del Dolle

Rolle

10.  Frozza

Colbertaldo

11.  L'Antica Quercia

Scomigo

12.   La Farra

Farra di Soligo

13.  La Tordera

Vidor; Guia

14.  Masottina

Ogliano

15.  Merotto

Col San Martino

16.  Miotto

Colbertaldo

17.  Roccat

San Pietro di Barbozza

18.  San Feletto

San Pietro di Feletto

19.  Sommariva

San Michele

20.  Sorelle Bronca

Colbertaldo; Farrò; Rua

21.  Spagnol-Col del Sas

Solighetto

22.  Tanore

Guia

23.  Tenuta degli Ultimi

Collalto

24.  Val d'Oca

Santo Stefano

25.  Villa Sandi  

San Pietro di Barbozza

Appendix (4) Rive by Producers

Rive

Producers

Collalto

Biancavigna ; Borgoluce; Col Sandago; Conte Collato; Drusian;  Tenuta degli Ultimi;

Ogliano

Biancavigna; Borgo Antico; Masottina; Trevisol; Zardetto

San Pietro di Barbozza

Bortolomiol; Carpenè Malvolti; Roccat; Valdo; Val d'Oca; Villa Sandi

Santo Stefano

Bottega; Cà Salina; Drusian; Gemin; Le Colture; Val d'Oca;  

Guia

Bisol; Bortolin Angelo;  Gemin; La Tordera; Marsuret; Tanorè;

Col San Martino

Andreola; Bottega; Bortolomiol; Follador;  Merotto; Ronfini;

Colbertaldo

Adami; Cantine Maschjo; Miotto; Frozza; Sorelle Bronca: Val d'Oca;

Farra di Soligo

Adami; La Farra; La Reggenza; Le Volpere; Marchiori;

Soligo

Andreolo; Biancavigna; Colli Soligo;

Refrontolo

Andreolo; Astoria; F.lli Colavo; Colvendrà; Santa Margherita;

References

  • Tomasi & Gaiotti, I Terroirs Della Denominazione Conegliano Valdobbiadene (CRA, 2011)
  • Tomasi & Gaiotti The Terroirs of Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Wines (CREA 2020)
  • Scienza et al Atlante Geologico dei Vini D'Italia (Giunti 2020)
  • Thanks to the Consorzio di Tutela Conegliano Valdobbiadene for their invaluable help and support

Want to learn more? Watch Richard's webinar on this topic here. Webinars are free for WSG members! Not yet a WSG member? Become one today by clicking here.

 

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Richard Baudains

Richard Baudains was born and bred on the island of Jersey, a corner of the British Isles with French origins, hence the French surname. He studied literature and trained to be a teacher of English as a foreign language to satisfy a wanderlust which eventually brought him to Italy, where he has resided for the past 30 years. He wrote his first article for Decanter Magazine in 1989 and has been a regular contributor on Italian wine ever since. He is the Regional Chair for the Veneto at the Decanter World Wine Awards, an occasional taster on the jury at the Concours Mondial du Sauvignon Blanc, a member of the team of the Slow Wine Guide for Friuli-Venezia Giulia and lecturer in wine journalism at Slow Food’s Università delle Scienze Gastronomiche. He lives in Gorizia and in his day job he directs a language school. 

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